sergio rocha

Studio/Institution: arquigraphos Genre: Residential Exterior Software: Various Website: http://www.arquigraphos.com Description: ...

Studio/Institution: arquigraphos Genre: Residential Exterior Software: Various Website: http://www.arquigraphos.com Description: complete daylight enviroment for large habitation complex.

lol, it depends on the time you want to spend in it. My work hours are spent as an architect so my viz must be very quick. The great advantage of workin with digital slr´s is the 48bit(16bit perchanel) format that allows you to get hdris. Anyone with little experience with hdri understands that it´s not possible to light hi scale models such as architecture with small images. I surelly could display here a lot of advantages of the slr´s (i still use my nikon fm) but i think "quality" is enough. When i print "them" i see the diference.

well, i surelly advice you to get at least 5mgpx. For the best quality/price i choosed minolta dimage 7i that ables you to get RAW files (that you can turn to beautiful hi-res hdri) and supports the ibm microdrive.I think that its the best aproach to the digital slr´s and it has great lens for architecture (16layers - 28-200mm). For photomontaging i always use hdri nowardays because it´s the quickest and accurate way to do it, and you wont get good results with hdris found on the web,You´ll need hi-res hdri´s of the site to get clean lights and sharp reflexions. I only have good things to say about this camera.

if your face treshold is 10 and your chekin autosmooth on the 3ds export diag nothing like that should happen. have you checked your object properties? Maybe you should contact autodesk.

nice ceiling. but...is it finished? i believe the composition is still poor because of the emptyness.You should get better sence of space by creating some distance planes... and some ligntnig issues to work out.

maybe your problem is when exporting your objects. try "facetres" comand and turn the values to 10.

hi mbr, in interiors i always use 28mm.it´s the best aproach for the livin space.There are many discussions about the best aproach to the human eye from 35 to 50mm, but as a visuallizer you should add the feeling of being in the space.Try pic a photo from a living room and be there at the same time.you´ll understand then. As for exteriors, you should go like 28-50mm. when needed, the "tecnhical camera" script can help you a lot to correct perspective. This works on stills.For animations i agree with jennifer.

well, miguel, for accurate lighting and and bird-eye perspectives you only can do it nice with 3d meshes.To be able to get a good result with op maps you´d need an rpc with 360x(6x180) .I separated my matlib by lighting (sun from left(hi and low sun),rigth, top, ambient only ....)because that´s the only way to make them integrated in the picture.When working in projects that require a lot of views,I believe that the best way is to use 3d (poser+deeppaint i.e.) and create the nearest planes in photoshop.When working with planes only (ambient light) the "look at" camera mod can help you a lot.

This is what i mean : ...by the way, that´s my beautyfull sun(&son)

If you open a 16(48) bit image (which has 16 bit data in it) and look at the levels (colors), eyedropper i.e. , you still see 8-bit values from 0 to 255. Since the data in the image file is 16 bit these numbers should run from 0 to 65535 (or some subset of that if the data has been padded). I have just downloaded cinepaint (available for windows now) and it does the trick real nice.And you can see the difference. Give it a try, its just 5mg file. "The 32-bit per channel color range of CinePaint appeals to 35mm cinematographers and professional still photographers because film scanners are capable of greater color bit-depth than can be displayed on an 8-bit per channel monitor or can be manipulated in typical programs"..."8/16/32-bits of Color per Channel (up to 128-bits RGBA)" http://cinepaint.sourceforge.net/

thanx Well i think the real problem is that photoshop 7 came a litlle "after time" hã?... I work the raw files on the cam software, so ..no problem with that, but, i just figgered that even workin with 16(48)bit in photoshop you only get values from 0 to 255 !!! .. what da ...! Let´s wait for ps8 and see...

Hi guys, i recently bought a new camera that ables me to get RAW files with the best quality ever. The problem is that when i export them to 48bit TIFF format and open in photoshop, the application shows a lot of handicups. I can´t "copy/paste".I´m aware of some limitations when using 48bit in photoshop(filters...) but copy/paste??? For me it´s crucial to layer images so i would like to know if someone knows a solution for this. thanx

Nice pic´s...i understand nuno when he talks about shutter speeds (it´s nice to use 1/4000 right? ) but with blurred people you achieved one of the most important things in arch photo - the so called 4th dimension - TIME. That´s why they have that great impact. Congrats

hmm.... i was able to exchange a p4 last year but it fried on the day i bought it... Did you change his clock freq? If you ever do that, remove your box covers and give it a lot of fresh air (the best way you can think of). Another VERY important thing is to use a nice polysynthetic between the processor and cooler to make good contact (i use arctic silver - www.arcticsilver.com i hope it helps your next one