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sonofalion

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  1. Maybe your monitor's a bit dark (or mine a bit bright). Anywayz, here's a brighter version. http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2001025615972929978 Just try it on your own and see if it works.
  2. I hate Mondays! Especially when it is a holiday on Tuesday, and you got to go to work instead of having a 4-day chance to go on a trip or sth. Anyway, I was feeling lazy and things at the office are kind of slow for a change, so I was playing around with Photoshop. I started with a white background and then applied Filter>Render>Clouds. Then I applied Filter>Blur>Motion Blur and cranked the distance all the way to the right (999). After that I used the Hue/Saturation tool with Colorize on, to achieve a dark brown colour. Then Filter>Artistic>Paint Daubs. Optionally you can add a bit of Gaussian blur or adjust the Levels or Hue or even add some Grain for the final outcome. This is what I got. Resolution independent wood texture. http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2001923880534859111 I'm sure with a bit more time it can get better, but I'm too bored to try now. Also another good Photoshop tip is creating brushed metal using just noise and Motion Blur. Paris
  3. Andrew, this is from my notes. f-number (f-stop): opens up the camera aperture. Small makes brighter. Also determines the amount of the DOF effect shutter speed: determines exposure time. Longer exposure (=small shutter speed) meand brighter image and vice versa. Also affects motion blur. film speed (ISO): sensitivity of image. High ISO means bright image (less light is needed - good for night shots) vertical shift: performs camera perspective correction (use "Guess vertical shift") white balance: compensates for sunlight coloring. For daylight scenes, it should be set to "peach" (20,55,245) So leave the default setting for the sun and play with the camera settings, starting with the ISO setting. Don't be afraid to set these too high or low. Good luck. If I have any errors, guys, please let me know. Paris
  4. Jeff, I 'll be really looking forward to this, have been messing up with my monitor and printer and never got where i wanted. So, let us know when you're done, I'll be gnawing my fingers off in anticipation in the meantime... Paris
  5. I think sb has done that already. It's a script called object 2 spline align. You can find it here: http://www.3idee.nl Description: If you want to align objects to a spline created in AutoCAD. Choose an object/group, select two vertices on a spline and the object will be aligned to the spline...Use in top view... Also, there doesn't really have to be a spline to align to, you can just snap to vertices. Apart from that you can also use the Normal Align function in max. Have a good day, Paris
  6. Nice modeling and lighting, cool! Did you really model all the shingles? The windows have very vivid reflections, maybe you should distort or blur them a bit (maybe add refraction?). Also, the trees are blurry due to low resolution, take a look at that, or just don't use that view altogether. Paris
  7. I'll go with "Suspend" cuz my pc won't handle another max instance. How about "Split scan lines"? Paris
  8. Hi there. Trying to use Backburner for the first time. As I understand it, if I render one image I hve to check "Split scan lines" so that the other pcs can contribute. My question is, do I have to check "Suspend", close max, and then start the net render, or do I just fire it away? Thanks in advance, Paris
  9. Hi Tolis, to sum up you can either use Booloean (the easy one), 2d rectangular extruded shapes (the cleaner one), shapemerge, or in the new version of 3ds max there is also ProBoolean, which is better (there is a long dispute on this on another thread) than the classic Boolean. Generally cutting holes with boolean operations can get tricky, depending on the topology of your object, so whenever you do make one, check your whole model to see if anything has gone wrong with your polygons. Paris
  10. Ok, Steve, thanks a lot for sharing! Paris
  11. Dear STRAT, you are starting to shed some light to the darkness, but I am still a bit perplexed. You say that yes, I should render at that resolution, but at the same time, you declare that half the resolution wouldn't make much difference. Especially, you say, if the print is for your own use. What do you mean "my own use"? Have you tried this in your own printer to see the difference? You also say that I should render as high as possible, but I don't think that you get anything if you render at a resolution higher that the aforementioned one. What do you think? Paris
  12. Guys, the theory goes like this: I want a rendering which I'm going to print on an A4 paper. If I want the printing resolution to be 300dpi (which is the standard for most printers), then my rendering resolution should be 3507x2480 pixels. You can also check this from the Print Size Wizard within 3dsmax. So, would I really have to render at that high a resolution? Isn't it an overkill? Wouldn't a smaller rendering (half the resolution) give a printed image that you couldn't discern from the other one with the higher quality? Or is it just a matter of the right paper? If so, do you print on matte or glossy paper usually? Excuse the question bombardment, but up till now I only had to render images that would be shown on-screen. Have a nice day! Paris
  13. Try the 3DAS tuts on this site (Resources section), or the ArchiCD video tutorials.
  14. The video automatically loops. You can tweak this at the 'Time' rollout of your map in the Material Editor. Also, in the 'Bitmap Parameters' rollout -> 'Cropping/Placement' you can crop your video to your liking. Don't forget to tick 'Apply' afterwards. So, the answer is YES! You can do that all in Max! See how good it is?
  15. Very nice work. How long did the whole process take?
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