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exposed concrete construction


chow choppe
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hi frnds ...my third post today...

 

actuallly i want to post the stuff before i forget it... :D

 

i belong to INDIA and here the construction techniques and materials knowledge is far behind other countries( atleast in my city).....for eg yesterday i suggested someone to go for exposed concrete wall with shuttering patterns visible( as we see in modern exposed concrete buildings with concrete panels and one dot visible at each corner) for his residence but we coudln't find a mason who was aware of that thing and didn't know how its done.....

 

So basically ryt now i need some information about how that effect is achieved and what is the construction process and materials involved in that .

Any internet link wud be good

 

thanks

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I am not 100% sure I know what you are asking so take this post for what it is worth. Here in the States, some contractors use plywood for forms and use metal wire ties, to keep the sides from blowing out when the concrete is poured. These mettal wire ties have a circular collar/washer on each side of the plywood to keep the clips from pulling through the wood, these leave round dimples in the concrete's surface. This is for poured in place concrete and usually a concrete additive (plastitizer) is add to make the concrete finish smooth and the formwork is coated with an lubricant form release product. This method leaves more than four dimples and the number is based on how much support is needed for formwork. Of course four could be used in corners and the formwork reinforces on the outside by another method to get the desired look. I only mention this technique since you are talking about residential work, the following is used on commercial type projects.

 

If you are talking about tilt-up or pre-cast concrete then you would add elements to the inside of the formwork like reveals and circular indents in the corners as well as imbed plates to fasten the finished panels to the structue and these effects are for the most part, cosmetic instead of being part of the construction technique.

 

Not sure if this is what you were asking about, but if you aren't able to use the plywood from the formwork in the construction later for sheathing, it may not be cost effective.

 

Good luck!

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Easiest way as was implied is to add the features in relief in the formwork...in tilt up construction (wall concrete placed in the horizontal as a slab and then picked up or tilted to the vertical) you'd place the features to be exposed on the flat/sound subgrade with fasteners/adhesive ...then any required reinforcement and embeds (taking into consideration clearances...don't want rust stains exposed later) and then the fresh concrete is placed on top...consolidated well and finished .After tilting the "slabs" to the vertical the forms for the features are stripped if they came up with the tilt and any dressing/patching that needs done is completed.

With poured in place construction the vertical back forms are set and braced...then reinforcement and embeds..then on the face form you apply your details in relief and it's then fastened to the rest of the formwork and braced.Fresh concrete is placed from above through tremies or chutes if needed and consolidated well..Stripping the forms then exposes the design and any patch work to fill voids is performed.

 

Don't forget the curing compound ;)

 

 

Hope this helps some

 

Peace :cool:

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So basically ryt now i need some information about how that effect is achieved and what is the construction process and materials involved in that .

Any internet link wud be good

 

Post a pic / example....can diagram out how to form it using basic materials...plywood, wood, basic/traditional forming techniques, if you would like ;)

 

WDA

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Post a pic / example....can diagram out how to form it using basic materials...plywood, wood, basic/traditional forming techniques, if you would like ;)

 

WDA

 

I agree....even i want some details...CONSTRUCTION DETAILS...

 

its really hard to understand with simple text...

but really appreciate the effort though guys.

 

keep going

 

thanks

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Wouldn't you know.....everything is insulated poly block systems on the web. Well some places still do it the old fashioned way. This is from before metal form systems and what is still used for very custom form work, such as Calatrava's Milwaukee Art Museum Addition

 

Here's a link to a pdf, pg 16 has one method without using the red hangers in my image.... http://www.apawood.org/pdfs/managed/V345.pdf

 

The image shows the basic set up.

 

Hope it helps

 

WDA

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Had you considered the budget for this method?

 

 

Since you want to use this for residential units, you might as well consider

where and which part of the structure will you be using the concrete panels.

Is it for interior or exterior?

 

Cost wise. Using precast concrete is a bit expensive but it'll let you save on construction time and labor.

 

Consider also doing all those form works in creating a solid concrete block

with grid and dot holes for aesthetic purpose only without structural function.

Which I think is not so practical for a residential unit.

 

Just a suggestion. Normally for residential units we still use the CHB's

(Hollow Blocks with concrete fillers rights?).

You can do this on both exterior and interior portions of the structure.

 

Once all the block had been put in place and almost on the finishing

stages of the construction in which plastering has to be done.

You can achieve this same finish by using concrete plastering as well.

I guess you won't be using this finish for the whole structure right?

 

Before doing the plastering create a pattern on the CHB block walls

using wood inserts on the specific area where you want to have

the dots and grids. Insertion can be done by a simlpe method of fixing the

inserts by nailing it to the CHB. After doing so, you can start doing the platering with Class A concrete mix at 1:2. When plastering is dried and cured you can removed the inserts and finish the trimmed edges as well

with mortar. ( Normally concrete curing will take about 5 days)

 

This is just a suggestion for a simplier method (for cost cutting).

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Hanneet,

 

Your welcome. You should really consider picking up a couple books for reference.

 

* Building Constructed Illustrated-Francis D.K. Ching-Wiley Press

* Architectural Graphics Standards-1932 Edition-Wiley Press

 

They are great resources for 'methodolgies' and detials such as the formwork you are seeking & so much more.

 

WDA

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