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Hdr 360 spherei


chris erskine
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http://chris.erskines.com.au/qtvr/erskine_falls_02_03.mov

This was taken as a 9-stop hdr on a nikon D200 with 10.5mm fisheye + panoramic tripod. the full res is 8k x 4k

I used photoshop to compress the tonal range down to 8bit.

I've had a bit of problems with blurring due to the trees blowing in the wind, I'm not sure how i'm going to fix it. since any manual masking would need to be automated over the 9 different exposures

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I'm using a manfrotto tripod with a 303sph head, 338 leveling base, and a hotshoe level.

I'm using real viz stitcher to put them together with has a good automated stitch (as long as you have the rig calibrated right, which can be tricky)

 

I found that my panorama's didn't stitch very well until i got the leveling base and hotshoe level.

 

the setup i have i have a lot of option with different camera and lens setups but its not the easiest to setup, takes quite a bit of practice to get it right. there are other options that are dedicated to 1 camera and lens kit which will have the nodal point setup for you. this would probably be a better setup if you plan on doing a lot of them and you don't have time to calibrate it for each shoot.

 

as far as software goes do a search for pano tools, its a plugin for photoshop. though i find stitcher to be easy and fast to use.

 

have a look at

http://www.nodalninja.com/

they have a bit that compares different qtvr heads. I don't know much about anything other than the manfrotto.

 

it takes a while to learn how take the 360 photos but once you have worked it out you can get a good process and automate a lot of the steps

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I've taken the idea of using a grid and made one that fits on a second tripod so i can take it with me and check it before i go and take photos.

 

things you need to worry about to make it work are

1. make sure you camera is level. i couldn't get it working properly until i got a leveling base and hotshoe level (to see if the camera is level and not just the tripod)

 

2. for the grid make sure its stable so it dosen't move around in the wind.

 

3. get the grid as close to the lens as you can, while still being able to rotate the camera a little.

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