Photoreal Advice

[wgrdesign]

I am using 3DS max with vray and trying to get photoreal results - I have read tons of tutorials with HDRI, GI, etc.. the whole bit but none seem to work to produce the results I am looking for, you know the ones where you have to look twice to tell if it is real or CG. The images I have been doing are OK and fine for the Firm I work for but they look flat at CG produced to me. Can anyone tell me the best way to produce these images. Thanks

[alamCG]

im also like you before, try to search the way to make things real try to find other people setting, learning tutorial and etc but nothing is working. one day i try download evermotion scene i used same setting to render my scene which is not hi quality material its quite fast but the quality is not same. so i realised that to make real rendering the most important u need to do real material then u used any rendering setting that you download i can sure u it will be nice scene. until now i still learning to create material. i mean nice and fast to render material

[alrawli]

Photoreal depends on alot of factors not just rendering. When producing images that are to be 'photoreal' ill change the way i model, by adding in more chamfers and rounded edges very rarely in real life do objects have sharp edges. also textures and bump maps make a massive difference to getting high quality images.

[wgrdesign]

I am guessing that this is where this is going since I have tried every possible combination. Does anyone know where to find and good tips and tricks for texturing site.

 

Thanks.

[BrianKitts]

my advice would be to include some of your work with your post so that people can help diagnose better what you should focus on.

[wgrdesign]

I was in the process of doing that but I got side tracked - anyhow here is pretty much the result's I am getting. These are tilt construction buildings so there is not alot of flash to them (I am sure that is part of the issue). Here are the settings I am currently using I abbreviated alot of these but I am sure everyone knows most of these.

 

Direct target light with a hdri using vray physical camera

 

Image sampler - Adapt. Subdiv.

Anital - Catmull - Rom

 

Adative Sub Image samp

min/0 max/3 Clr thresh .1

 

Indirect Illum - First Bounce IR Map Second bouce is Light Cache

 

LC settings

Sub Div 1000

Sample size .02

Interp Sampe 10

 

rQMC Sampler

Adaptive amount .85

Noise Thresh .01

Min Sample 8

Global Subdive Multiplier 1.0

 

Color mapping - Exponetial

 

Hope that helps someone out there

[Spooner04]

You should probably be using brute force as your secondary GI engine on exteriors. What are your IRR map settings.

[BrianKitts]

You should probably be using brute force as your secondary GI engine on exteriors. What are your IRR map settings.

 

I would disagree.... Brute force is something I would only rely on when LightCache isn't giving you the results you need, and normally this occurs on interiors in low level lighting conditions in my experience. Maybe for a dusk scene, but for a full lit daytime rendering Light Cache works quite well and will render about 4 times faster for ya.

 

As for the renders I would concentrate more on your reflections than your texturing. Specifically fresnel reflections is the thing I see that would benefit you the most.

[Tommy L]

I am guessing that this is where this is going since I have tried every possible combination. Does anyone know where to find and good tips and tricks for texturing site.

 

Thanks.

 

Youve tried every possible combination? In Max? That must have taken a while...

 

Post your work (higher res) in the WIP forum. The advice you gtet there will be from pro's.

[RodT]

another thing to remember, to have reflections work there must be something for them to reflect.

[wgrdesign]

Ok let's try this apporach -

 

If you had a similar scene how would you set it up? How many lights, types, vray settings, etc.... at least I would know I was heading on the right direction. Thanks

[RodT]

http://3dats.com/tutorials.asp

I'd highy reccomend these tutorials if you haven't reviewed them. Week 3 specificly. It may get you started. The questions that you've asked really takes in more than can be answered here. Their classes are suburb as well. You could also dig into postings that exist here. Search specfic topics. Hope this helps.

[Gus_Rayvus]

First, don't put you sun directly behind your camera.

Play with shadows make them do something interesting.

Put lights inside your building and put something inside your building.

You need a better glass, and something for it to reflect.

Try some different camera angles, at least 5, then pick the best one.

Palm trees are way too small.

Hand paint your gravel/road texture.

Your HDRI is to bright notice how light all your shadowed areas are.

If you were to level this image in Photoshop, you would notice that all you have is mid to light tones. You want to have a full range.

Look at your image in gray scale this will give some pointers on where you need more contrast.

 

No combination of settings will make this image look real to you have the other issues resolved.

Every image you make will use different settings, different materials and different lights, there is no magic button.

[Spooner04]

 

No combination of settings will make this image look real to you have the other issues resolved.

Every image you make will use different settings, different materials and different lights, there is no magic button.

 

 

You mean you didn't get one of these with your vray dongle??!!

[jkletzien]

First, you might be better off with this building going NPR if you know what I mean. But if you insist on going for photorealism than the first thing it takes is a rigorous eye to look for the details that are going to happen in the real world, and the dedication to tons of hard work to get them in your scene.

 

The markings of time, people, rain, tree foliage, cars, dogs, orientation etc....and how they have all influenced the scene.

 

Then once you feel like you know what a possible secret life of the place is, you can tell that story a little more effectively. As far as settings, Light Cache is what I'd use, but Brute force is fine, or if all else fails photoshop is good.

 

http://www.bertmonroy.com

 

it has much more to do with an eye towards detail and patience to see it through than any setting.

 

Now as far as specifics that I can see, as others have said, oil lines on the pavement, painted parking lines, fallen palm fronds, glass that reflects something, something inside the building, cars, people, and crucially once you have all those items, they MUST match your lighting.

 

If you are consistent, than it'll look like a photograph, if not it won't. But Gus is right (occaisonally he hits it on the head : ) ), you probably want to work a few different views to make sure it is a good photograph, no sense going to all that work to make a crappy photo.

[Gus_Rayvus]

Jon, National Public Radio ? that’s crazy talk. Everyone wants a snapshot, but no one is willing to model the trash.

[jkletzien]

I bet we've all modeled some trash in our day Pete. Now the dog crap, I only know one person that's modeled that. ; )