300 dpi for A3

[nodar1978]

hi guys, client asks me visuals for 300dpi, for printing A3 format. I've never don it before. I know what is dpi, A3, but shouldd i have to do it i max before rendering or i have to do it in photoshop?

thanks

[AJLynn]

Multiply the size in inches by the DPI to get the size in pixels, which gives you the Width and Height of your render.

[Nic H]

4960 x 3507

you can always use the print size wizard in rendering menu

[nodar1978]

by the way guys, if you are here. I've to render big resollutions, and PC is not so high quality. it takes about 1 hour for vray renderings, interiors. do you know guys how much it costs for one A3 still rendering in render farm? if interior is full with staf and materials? and can i do this now, this evening?

[nodar1978]

and of course thank you very much for information guys

[AJLynn]

1 hour for an interior at that res is fast.

[nodar1978]

no one hour takes for maybe 900 by 600, for example here is one of rendering

[nodar1978]

sorry here is a visual

[danb4026]

The lighting is pretty simple in your rendering, but rendering anything at 300dpi x A3 is going to take a while.

 

Here is a simple scene I did as a process rendering to show how a specific light fixture would look over a reception desk. Because the fixture was irregular glass (rock candy like) it took about 6 hours to render at A3 x 200dpi.

 

640 x 480 at same quality settings took about 25 minutes....3300 x 2300 took 6 hours.

[nodar1978]

hello, thanks for reply. nice work, i like it. i've got one more question, do you charge same rate for time when only pc is working or...? and do you use render farm usually?

I always do mistace when I'm saing the time for project, so it's meen that it is mistace in my money as well. I just cann't calculate time properly, andi'm always saing less, becouse dont want to lost client.

don't know what to do ...

 

Here is a simple scene I did as a process rendering to show how a specific light fixture would look over a reception desk. Because the fixture was irregular glass (rock candy like) it took about 6 hours to render at A3 x 200dpi.

[danb4026]

I would like to get an answer to that question as well. I am just starting out with freelance work and do not know what to charge for rendering time. (or if you even charge for rendering time at all).

 

Anyone??

[lyca]

i always charge the rendering as flatrate, so devide it in the folowing categorys :

Web / video is less than 1000x800 px = a€

print A4 3508x2480 px = 1.5 x a€

Print A3 4961x3508 px = 2 x a€

and billboard size 6000x4000 px = 3 x a€

 

Modeling is priced depending on the model complexity

(simple house to complex residence )

 

my quote is

modeling + render resolution = my price

[Nic H]

also if you arent allready keep in mind everytime you double the res, rendertime quadruples .

[nodar1978]

guys if you are still here, could you tell me the price for these renderings there is 6 visuals, and what do you think, how much i could charge for this work, it is not finished, i'm doing now the changes, I made models for nearly all the furniture and all rooms. how many houres you think i should ask for this project?

[CarlAhearne]

You should probably charge for the amount of hours it actually took you to do... You either charge a fixed price for your work, or by the hour, so just work out how long it actually took you...

[lyca]

there is what you say to the client for him to know what he get for the money and

there your back-office --> the way you calculate the time, the energy, the tools and all your costs in a method to get a price ou.

 

the client does not need to know you back office, all he wants is to get a price and know what i'll get for this.

 

The art of all this is to adapt your back-office cost to get a price that the client is ready to pay.

 

an other thing... never give to much details on your quotes like hour you need and other details, because i notice that it will be the first thing your client will take to negotiate the price. i notice that when i give a flat-rate price for a project, my quote was more often accepted than if i give hourly rate and you know what ? most of the time my flat-rate quote is more expensive than the same job in hourly-rate

 

just my experience

[nodar1978]

I think you are right, thank you for advice, and thank you guys to everybody, you all give me very good information, thank you very much

 

 

 

an other thing... never give to much details on your quotes like hour you need and other details, because i notice that it will be the first thing your client will take to negotiate the price. i notice that when i give a flat-rate price for a project, my quote was more often accepted than if i give hourly rate and you know what ? most of the time my flat-rate quote is more expensive than the same job in hourly-rate

 

just my experience

[MasterZap]

Make sure the person asking for 300 DPI really knows he really needs 300 DPI, and actually ask about the LPI (Lines Per Inch) or better yet PPI (Pixels Per Inch) to be totally sure.

 

Just because your printer can print 300 DPI (DOTS per inch) does N O T mean you need a 300 PPI (PIXELS per inch) image.

 

Why? Coz a dot isn't a pixel. No, a *set* of dots build a pixel, because in a printer, a DOT can be either on or off, not inbetween. (Well, this sort of changes with some newer inkjets, sublimation printers, etc, but I am being very general here). So for most classical printers, a grid of "dots" build the halftoning pattern that creates the shades used to represent your pixels.

 

If this is such a printer, it is pointless to resolve the image down to the DPI of the printer. Even half is pushing it. I would suggest 100 PPI is enough for such 300 DPI printer.

 

As a matter of fact many professional printers are rated in LPI, which really is the "repetition rate" of the halftone pattern. Mind you, halftone dots can be split in half, so the "effective resolution" can be higher than the halftone pattern size, but not really much larger, and it can really only resolve edges better than the halftone pattern size, not micro-detail in any meaningful way.

 

Basically, if the actual resolution of your printing device really is 2400 DPI (like some pro magazine printers) then, yes, you may need 300 PPI renderings. Maybe. If even then.

 

The sad part is that even the guys in charge of handling the print stuff rarely understands the difference between DPI, LPI and PPI.

 

Not to mention that they tell you "This image should be 10 inches by 5 inches, at 300 DPI", and then you send them an image of 3000 by 1500 pixels, they get back to you and say "Hey, your image was 72DPI and way too big, you must re-render it..... we can't use it!"

 

/Z