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Book Worm


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Hi ,

 

Glad it made you smile! Funny u should say that I'm actually sorting a horizontal version as we speak. Just sorting a few more assets for the wider shot. The wood resembles that of a reference picture I was using, I'll also up the DOF and see what I can produce.

 

Thanks for ur suggestions

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Hi Corey,

 

I was thinking that about the wood but in my ref pic they were the same type/shade so I thought I'd stick with that but I'll try a colour correction in PS and compare! As for the mug I wanted it to be one of the big hold with two hands kind of mugs, but if it just looks out of scale I might just scale it to an average size mug.

 

Thanks for the feed back

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Fair enough on both accounts. I personally just want the edge of the table to jump out at me. Maybe just push the contrast on the table or as **** said, a little DOF. As to the cup, I just though it looked more like a bowl in comparison to the books. But if you're going for the Mike Meyers in "So I Married and Axe Murderer" size, then you got it.

 

Can't wait to see the final.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had to smile, too, when I saw the book worm. Nice idea!

 

Some C&C that IMO will greatly improve the image:

 

1. the cabinet doors should have some space around them. For inset furniture doors you will need 4-6mm space on all sides to be able to open the doors (depends on thickness of door). Cabinetmakers usually build them with 5-6mm as a standard.

2. Chamfer all the edges. In the real world there is no such thing as a sharp edge. Even a scalpel is not really sharp. On furniture edges, that can be touched, always are chamfered or have a fillet of at least 2-3mm.

3. The grain on the upright cabinet parts should run up, too. Also the backwall and the vertical and horizontal parts of the wall are all seperate parts (at least if it was built it would be). That also means, that each part will be from a different part of the tree and have a unique grain pattern. To add that extra bit of realism make sure, that the grain runs logically on all cabinet parts.

4. I'm not quite sure, if this is supposed to be acorn or birch. Both however can be very tricky materials with its mirror grains (not quite sure, what this is called in english, german carpenters call them "Spiegel" which is mirror, so I'll use that). On this image it looks like you have mirrored the grain in the specular map (point 4). you need to turn those down quite a bit. Also I'd activate fresnel reflections and maybe even try a falloff. Those mirrors are barely visible when looked at directly and only become visible when turned perpendicular to the light. The normal grain will always be visible through them, too.

5. The books. Look at your own book shelfs. How many collections of identical books do you have? ;)

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Hi Nils, thank u for the c&c I think I'll go back and touch this up! Just having issue with number 4, still don't quite have the eye for something's yet! So u recommend taking the map out of the reflection slot and placing a fall off map in there instead?? As for number 5 I got lazy ;)

 

Thanks Phil

Edited by monkeyman905
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Depends on your material setup. Will prolly require some experimentation. You can either try to take out the spec map alltogether and replace it with a falloff map, turn down the specular maps intensity or put the spec map in the white slot of a falloff map. The middle option will probably be enough if fresnel reflections are turned on. Satinated furniture usually doesnt require overly complex maps.

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