NigelStutt Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 Here are two images the first is the render from 3dsmax2017 and the second is after putting it into photoshop and choosing exposure gamma correction of 2.2 - looks a bit washed out. Can anyone tell me does this 3dsmax output look roughly right for 2.2 gamma and how do I get this PS image looking more realistic - Ive rendered in max using mr photo exposure controlw ith exposure of 14.17, high/mid/shadows of 0.25/0.75/0.2 and sun/sky multipliers of x1 in daylight settings. I used to use x2 in the daylight sun and sky because I liked the contrast but dont know if thats better? Anyone give me some advice on getting this final image to look correct for a nice sunny day please? [ATTACH=CONFIG]56322[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]56321[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NigelStutt Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 Ah I think I have it sorted - it seems you have to change exposure to +2.2 in PS not Gamma. This is a later rendered image of the above project with Exposure cahnged to +2.2 in PS and it looks right to me. But any commentsabout this would be apprecaited because Ive searched online and cant find anything about this last bit of using 2.2 gamma/linear workflow in Max. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francisco Penaloza Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 Well, I can see the first images that you posted, they display an error. Regarding Gamma, just do yourself a favor and forget out it, believe me, Gamma is a rabbit hole. Thankfully 3D Max and VRay manage that by itself as right now so, just set up your Gamma setting in 3D Max to default and when you save your images use VRay frame buffer. IF your renders are save as JPG or any 8 Bit format, they will get adjusted, if you save your image as EXR or HDR then they will save as Gamma 1.0 so you can do whatever the heck you need in post-production. By default Photoshop will read your 16 or 32 Bit image correctly, just tung that image in to a smart object, then jump in to that object then adjust your exposure, save it, and go back to your main document and change the bit depth to 16 or 8 bit so you can use all Photoshop tools. This way you can keep working in Photoshop no problems and if you need to do a big exposure change, go back to your smart object and this will still be at 32 Bits and adjust as need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesper Pedersen Posted October 22, 2018 Share Posted October 22, 2018 Hi Nigel, You may have this worked out by now, but if not, my advice would (like Franscisco) be to keep it simple and try to avoid introducing more variables. So use a vRay physical camera with physical camera exposure control. Keep your sun and skylight set with multipliers of 1.0 (you can play with these later when you feel comfortable and in control ie getting consistent reliable results). Don't mess with Gamma, so leave it at 2.2 or default. Physical camera, start with ISO 100, f6 and shutter speed at about 1/500. Then begin to adjust the shutter speed or aperature. Eg image too bright bring shutter speed from 1/500 to 1/1000, or adjust aperature from f6 to f8 eg image too dark bring shutter speed from 1/500 to 1/250, or adjust aperature from f6 to f5 , etc Apologies if this is too basic (just trying to help) good luck! Jesper Pedersen http://www.pedersenfocus.ie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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